Welcome to Island peak climbing and Everest three passes trekking in Nepal
island peak climbing management by the mountain air guided Adventures(p)Ltd.This is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar seperated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak (6,189m/20,305'). The extension of this ridge descending south-west is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the South Summit. Imja Tse not only proves to be an enjoyable climb but also provides a vantage point for some of the most spectacular scenery of the Khumbu Himalayas.Imja Tse is the ideal first Himalayan climb and a wonderful experience to climb over 20,000 ft. Basic mountaineering experience such as glacier travel, ice-axe arrest, use of ascenders, and rapelling are REQUIRED for participation. Mountaineering skills will be reviewed by our climbing Sherpas on the trek in prior to your climb.
Seen from the summit, the mountain giants Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle to the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) to the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam to the south add all the more incentive for climbing Island Peak.
The trekking route can include crossing the Chola pass into the Gokyo valley either at the beginning or on the return leg.
Climb from the South East Flank & South-West Ridge
Normally, the base camp is set to the south at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and
the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It is wise to remember that the place is prone to avalanche in the event of heavy snowfall. From Base Camp, starting at 2:00 or 3:00 AM, a well acclimatized party in good condition can make the summit and return in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establisheing a High-Camp (5600 m) which aids a safe ascent. From Base Camp the route skirts south east around the base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up an open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier. Just above high camp, some rocky steps require 200 m of moderate scrambling and then up through a broad open gully. At the top of the gully, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep (50-55°) snow and ice slope. From here, fixed ropes may be setup by the guides for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 metres (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The final push to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. In recent times the snowy slopes below the summit have developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top more difficult
Normally, the base camp is set to the south at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and
the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It is wise to remember that the place is prone to avalanche in the event of heavy snowfall. From Base Camp, starting at 2:00 or 3:00 AM, a well acclimatized party in good condition can make the summit and return in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establisheing a High-Camp (5600 m) which aids a safe ascent. From Base Camp the route skirts south east around the base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up an open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier. Just above high camp, some rocky steps require 200 m of moderate scrambling and then up through a broad open gully. At the top of the gully, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep (50-55°) snow and ice slope. From here, fixed ropes may be setup by the guides for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 metres (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The final push to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. In recent times the snowy slopes below the summit have developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top more difficult
Climb from the North Ridge
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col (5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the ridge which is a magnificient snow arete, due south. This steepens for the final summit pyramid. This a long ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions and may under other contiditions have a marked cornice. The climb is a little more difficult than the normal route, and is graded alpine PD+.
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col (5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the ridge which is a magnificient snow arete, due south. This steepens for the final summit pyramid. This a long ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions and may under other contiditions have a marked cornice. The climb is a little more difficult than the normal route, and is graded alpine PD+.
| No. Of days: 22 | |
| Starting point: | Kathmandu |
| Max. Elevation: | 6160m |
| Grade: | Hard |
| Mode of trek: | Camping |
| Ending point: | Kathmandu |
| Season: | Sep/Dec and Mar/May |
| Max. Walking: | 7-8hrs. |
| Mode of travel: | drive in/fly out |
| Itinerary: | Itinerary : |
| Day 01: | Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel |
| Day 02: | Sightseeing in Kathmandu |
| Day 03: | Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2800m) and trek to Phakding(2652m) |
| Day 04: | Trek to Namche bazaar(3440m) |
| Day 05 | Rest day at Namche bazaar for acclimatization |
| Day 06: | Trek to Dole(4200m) |
| Day 07: | Trek to Nala(4400m) |
| Day 08: | Trek to Gokyo 4750m same day walk to Gokyo Ri(5350m) |
| Day 09: | Trek to Chola B.C. |
| Day 10: | Trek to Zongla |
| Day 11: | Trek to Lobuche |
| Day 12: | Trek to Chikung |
| Day 13: | Trek to Island B.C. |
| Day 14: | High Camp |
| Day 15: | Summit Island peak (6160m) and back to High Camp |
| Day 16: | Trek to Dhingboche |
| Day 17: | Trek to Khumjung |
| Day 18: | Trek to Phakding |
| Day 19: | Trek to Lukla |
| Day 20: | Fly back Lukla to Kathmandu |
| Day 21: | Rest day in Kathmandu |
| Day 22: | Final Departure |
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| Cost Includes |
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| Cost Excludes |
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Photo: Nepal Island Peak ( 6189 m.) Climbing
Imja Tse, another name of the same Island Peak does not only provide an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. View from the summit are Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add much more charming bonus in climbing Island Peak (Imjatse).
The normal route:
The base camp of Island Peak lies in Chukung Valley, between Island Peak and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Proper care should be taken to avoid the possible avalanche in the event of heavy snowfall.
From the base camp, a well-acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer alpine style camping at high camp, which adds the joy of climbing and helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts southeast around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on at 5, 280m.
From the high camp, the lefts hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing.
Itinerary
Day 01: Kathmandu - Lukla by flight. Trek to Phakding. (A, B, L, D)
Day 02: Namche Bazaar. (A, B, L, D)
Day 03: Rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization. (A, B, L, D)
Day 04: Khumjung. (A, B, L, D)
Day 05: Dole. (A, B, L, D)
Day 06: Machermo. (A, B, L, D)
Day 07: Gokyo - Gokyo Ri - Na. (A, B, L, D)
Day 08: Phortse (A, B, L, D)
Day 09: Pangboche (A, B, L, D)
Day 10: Chhukhung. (A, B, L, D)
Day 11: Island Peak Base Camp. (A, B, L, D)
Day 12: Rest at Base Camp (A, B, L, D)
Day 13: High Camp. (A, B, L, D)
Day 14: Summit - Chhukhung. (A, B, L, D)
Day 15: Dingboche. (A, B, L, D)
Day 16: Tengboche. (A, B, L, D)
Day 17: Namche Bazaar. (A, B, L, D)
Day 18: Lukla. (A, B, L, D)
Day 19: Lukla - Kathmandu by flight. (A, B)
Abbreviation: (A = Accommodation, B = Breakfast, L = Lunch, D = Dinner
Tour Prices:
Currencies
Trips Price per Person in group Size
1 2-5 6-9 10+
US Dollar (US$) 2000 1850 1825 1800
Euro (€) 1395 1290 1270 1250
Pound (£) 1010 935 925 910
Australian Dollar (AUS$) 2315 2140 2115 2080
Canadian Dollar (CAN$) 2100 1930 1895 1880
Can i hiring a Just climbing guide for the island peak climbing?
-Yes,you can hiring a climbing guide.
Who is Experience Guide?
NMA liec.holder guide have experience ,some has more experience than others. For the island peak and other peaks of Nepal needed a NMA verify Guide to issue the climbing permit.
How much for the island peak climbing guide hiring cost?
It cost $350 usd for the island peak hiring guide.
How much for the island peak climbing permit cost?
It cost $350 usd and up to 4 person have chances to climb with same permit.
How much for the island peak equipment cost?
-Different price for the different quality
What is the equipment for the island peak climbing?
FAQ About the island peak climbing
1. How difficult to climb the island peak in Nepal?
2. Do i Need the insurance to climb the island peak?
3. Is there require the previous climbing experience for the island peak climbing?
4. What is the total cost to climb the island peak in Nepal?
5. What is the best views from the island peak climbing?
